In many minds (including my own, once upon a time) tequila gets a bad rap. Many of us have had an evening or two we regret that was in some way facilitated by that magical distillation of blue agave, and in some cases that’s enough to relegate it to the realm of “never again.” For others, the margarita is the only way we know a surprisingly versatile spirit. Well, I’m here to tell you that with summer out in full force, there’s never been a better time to experience the full breadth of that which tequila can offer to the adventurous drinker.
Let’s start with the basics. All tequila is a distillation of 100% blue agave. Native to the Mexican state of Jalisco, these succulents are grown for twelve years, at which point the leaves are stripped off and the sap is removed from the heart. Fermented and distilled, we have tequila.
From there, we have five basic categories of tequila, based on how long they’re aged. Blanco (white) or Plata (silver) tequilas are either bottled immediately after distillation, or aged for less than two months in stainless steel or neutral oak. Oro (gold) tequila is simply silver tequila with coloring and/or flavoring added to imitate aging. Reposado (rested) is aged for at least two months, but less than a year in oak barrels, while Añejo (aged) gets one to three years in oak. The newest classification, Extra Añejo, requires at least three years aging.
Generally speaking, younger tequilas are harsher and simpler, but this often makes them a better fit for cocktails like the margarita, since you need that bite to cut through the sweet and sour elements of the drink. Aged tequilas can take on a rounded, smoky, caramel taste and texture, much like an aged whiskey. They’re wonderful on their own, or as the backbone of a more elegant cocktail.
While the Margarita is of course an excellent way to enjoy the pleasures of tequila, Cicchetti in particular offers a number of different ways to sample this versatile spirit. My personal favorite is the Durango, essentially a tequila Manhattan. It lends a nice edge to the classic complexity of that cocktail, and really illustrates the depth of flavor in a well-aged tequila. So stop on in and experience this under-appreciated gem from below the border.
